Morocco to Spain and Portugal Day 12: Évora to Lisbon

The more people travel, the more peace and understanding we can foster in the world—but there has to be a balance. Some cities have become so over-touristed that daily life is no longer typical for the people who live there. In some towns it can feel easier to buy a souvenir than an onion. In Lisbon prices have risen so much that many locals can no longer afford to live in the city and are forced into long commutes.

That’s why I was especially happy that our first stop today was in Arraiolos—a darling small town that few people know about…yet. It’s known for its beautiful, traditional embroidered rugs, a craft that has been passed down for generations. The empanadas I bought there were the best I’ve ever had, and I found a beautiful, one-of-a-kind necklace from a local artist.

Warm empanadas: one if sweet potato, the other duck. Soooo delicious. (They had 20 different choices of fillings)
This is the local style of embroidery.. And look at the empty streets!

At the church Igreja do Salvador, the beautiful blue-and-white tile walls quietly tell a story—one of feeding the hungry, helping the homeless, and caring for the most vulnerable. It’s a message that feels especially meaningful for the American church right now. The central aisle had a beautifully embroidered rug, almost too lovely to walk on.

A rug in process
Monument to the women who embroider the rugs
Mural showing the dying process
Sushi lunch
Our fabulous tour director knows everyone and always greets them warmly

He also treats us to something almost every day. Today it was the best thing I’ve eaten in a long time—a warm custard tart in flaky puff pastry. He stood in line for half an hour to buy it at the monastery.


The story goes that in earlier times the nuns used egg whites to starch their clothes, leaving them with extra yolks. So they began making custard with the yolks. Today, they produce and sell about 23,000 tarts a day.
Monument to Harry the Navigator who colonized the west coast of Africa and made a trade route around the Cape of Good Hope
Lisbon’s beautiful central square
View of the castle

We had dinner at a traditional fado house, where we listened to three different singers perform. Afterward, we had the chance to speak with them—one of whom owned the restaurant and was even washing the dishes!

On the way out I told the guitarist how much I enjoyed his music, and he insisted we take a selfie together. Fun times. (Kay photo bombing)

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