Author: explorermarsh

This morning we took a little boat to an island that had a little cave and a pretty cove. The scenery here is just stunning.

Afterward, we drove back to Hanoi for our flight to Danang. Along the way, we stopped at a cemetery, where our tour director explained the intricate rituals Vietnamese families perform for their dead. These traditions involve burying the bones for a set number of years, then exhuming, cleaning, and reburying them. Rather than celebrating birthdays, they observe death anniversaries, honoring their ancestors for four generations with elaborate dinners and family gatherings.

Vietnam seems like a small country, but to get From the north to the middle of the country where we are now would require 12 hours of driving. We took a flight but it still was a long day. We got to the beautiful hotel around 10 PM.

One of the best (and most fun!) ways to explore old town Hanoi is by riding in a bicycle-powered rickshaw. Although most Vietnamese now rely on scooters, these rickshaws once served as a primary mode of transportation. The traffic here is among the wildest I’ve ever seen, making on-foot walking tours potentially dangerous.

It’s hard to capture the exotic allure of Vietnam in words. Hanoi is a bustling, noisy metropolis where scooter riders weave through traffic, their horns blaring in every direction. The air is rich with the enticing aromas of freshly baked French baguettes and the sizzling of various meats and vegetables on the grill. In the old town, tiny shops brim with a myriad of offerings, while vendors gracefully carry their wares on their shoulders, adding to the city’s vibrant tapestry.

Later we visited the mausoleum where Ho Chi Minh’s body lays. He is a hero to the Vietnamese people. Here the war is called the American war, not the Vietnam war.

Later, we visited the Hanoi Hilton, where American prisoners were held during the war. Originally built by the French to detain revolutionaries after they seized power. The displays of photographs in the prison show Vietnamese with severe injuries, while photos of the American prisoners show them receiving letters from home and playing chess. Although atrocities occurred on both sides, the overall impression here is that the Vietnamese were victims of the villainous Americans. War is complicated.

Later we had dinner in the home of a dear Vietnamese family. They prepared amazing food for us and shared deeply about their lives and their family.

Our group of ten set off at 5 a.m., and throughout the day we welcomed more friends along the way—Ezra, Tina (my niece), our good Bakersfield friends at LAX, and others in Hanoi. The journey was long and uneventful. The flight to Tokyo was a grueling 12 hours, and the biggest surprise came with the subsequent six-hour flight to Hanoi. Although Tokyo and Hanoi appear close together on a map, the distance between them is greater than one might expect—farther than flying coast-to-coast in the USA.

After a 28-hour journey, we were utterly exhausted and had to wait at the airport for our friends arriving from Massachusetts before heading to the hotel. That two-hour period, spent simply standing around, was challenging for me. Nevertheless, I found comfort in listening to the local language, observing the people, and forming my first impressions. I was surprised when the woman from whom I bought tea didn’t understand the word for “milk”—neither in English nor in French.

It’s fun to see my good friends from my former and current life getting to know and enjoy each other. We have three doctors, two physical therapists, a nurse and several other medical professionals, so there’s a commonality there. Also, many in this group have serious musical interests, so that’s fun.

Years ago, I started planning a student trip to Cambodia, Vietnam, and Thailand. For a year and a half, a group of about twenty of us met regularly. We dreamed of Pad Thai, studied the Vietnam War, and wondered what might have happened at Angkor Wat to cause its inhabitants to abandon the largest religious structure in the world. The trip was scheduled for March 2020. Even two weeks before our departure, I was convinced we were still going. Sure, there was this new COVID virus, but it hadn’t really affected Asia—at least, that’s what I thought. But on March 13, 2020, when the world shut down, my hopes were dashed.

Fast-forward to 2023: I went on a reward trip to Panama and learned that the student travel company I’d worked with, (EF), also had an adult travel division. I knew I didn’t want to go to Cambodia with just Jim, and the idea of taking a small group of adults to Asia with a company I loved seemed exciting. So, I mentioned the trip to my close friends—and almost immediately, twenty people signed up. That was a year and a half ago, and tomorrow we leave.

What I’m most looking forward to is being with these people: dear friends from college, people who were in my wedding (and their adult daughter), the first friends I met when we moved to Ventura 40 years ago, my sweet niece and two couples who have traveled with me before. I had also offered the trip to some of my former students, who are now adults, and one of them took me up on it—she’s coming with her mom. Also, friends from church. The husband is famous for always bringing a baked good to meetings. It’s an amazing group.

I’m curious to see what it’s like to travel with adults. I used to remind my students of my three rules: no drinking or drugs, no sneaking out at night, and no people of the opposite sex in your room. These adults have joked that they plan to break all three rules! And that’s just fine—because they’re adults!

Well, today turned out to be full of surprises! It’s our last day in Italy, and I have to say—we’ve mastered the Italian trains. We know how to buy tickets, where to stand, how to change trains, where to store the luggage, and even how to get WiFi. Everything went smoothly: train to Palermo, train to the airport—all good.

Then the unexpected happened. A massive windstorm swept through, grounding all flights in both Sicily and Rome for hours. By wind. Weird, right? We ended up waiting on the plane forever. When we finally took off, we were met in Rome with the hardest landing EVER. Ouch! I was especially thankful we didn’t have a connecting flight because the line at the transfer desk was unbelievably long. Whew! Dodged a bullet!

Second surprise: we are staying in a hotel right next to the Rome airport for our early flight tomorrow. I couldn’t believe it was two blocks from the beach! Rome is inland, but the airport is on the ocean. Who knew?

I highly recommend Hotel Intorno al Fico if you’re looking for something basic and practical near the Rome airport. The manager truly did it all—he was the desk clerk, the driver, and the chef. He was amazing! He picked us up at the airport and even made us a delicious lasagna for dinner. Such a great experience!

Another day in Paradise.

While some people enjoy having breakfast at the hotel, for me, eating breakfast out is one of the best parts of the day. I love chatting with local workers—asking questions like, “What do you love about living here?”—and watching residents interact with each other. “Ciao, Mario!” Today’s breakfast was exceptional: fabulous pastries that we ate watching the ocean.

Then we walked fifteen minutes to the lighthouse and saw the charming little harbor.

Later, we took a guided tour of the cathedral, which reminded us of what we had seen in Palermo and Monreale. Like those, it was built by the Normans and featured stunning mosaics created by Byzantine artists.

We had lunch at Al Porticciolo, and it was absolutely delicious. Once again, the view was spectacular. I enjoyed an artichoke and mushroom pizza topped with cheese so good it could make you cry, while Jim had a pizza with San Daniele ham and rocket (arugula). It reminded me of the weekends Jim and I used to take to recharge, but this trip has felt like an extended version of that—one delicious and fun adventure after another.

I was a bit sad to leave Palermo today because we enjoyed such a wonderful time there. However, if I had known how stunning our next destination, Cefalù, would be, I would have excitedly hopped on the train!

When planning a trip, the endless possibilities can make it hard to decide where to go next. We knew we had the free trip to Rome and we wanted to visit Sicily, but we weren’t sure which towns to explore. That’s why we often revisit places—we have a better sense of what to do the second time around. This time, though, we got it just right. At the end of this trip, we’re tired but happy, and Cefalù is the perfect spot to relax and recharge. It’s absolutely beautiful.

We bought sandwiches at a nearby bakery and ate them on the stone pier, watching the kids playing in the sand and the grown-ups swimming and paddle boarding.

We poked around the town exploring the cute shops.

I always love discovering something I’ve never seen before, and this washhouse was no exception. I can just imagine women from long ago, each at their own square, washing clothes, chatting, and singing together. I love the sense of community. Another thing that has impressed me here was that teenagers stand around in groups with their phones in their pockets. They’re actually talking to each other. This gives me hope.

Later we walked along the beautiful boardwalk to the grocery store. The sun was setting and it was a magical moment.

Today, we took a day trip to Monreale, a small village about an hour outside of Palermo by bus. The highlight was the Norman Cathedral, built in the 1100s and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its unique architecture, with a distinctly Arab influence, sets it apart, and the interior is adorned with breathtaking mosaics that left us in awe.

You can climb to the top of the cathedral for a spectacular view

We had an excellent meal at Taverna del Pavone, and the restaurant staff was so kind to us, giving us recommendations about the town and helping me with my Italian.

We’re nearing the end of a trip filled with so many different pieces—it’s been such a fun adventure! However, since there’s no routine, each day requires careful planning. Today, we had booked a guided tour of three different places on the island, but we were disappointed to find that it was just a driver, not an actual guide. I hadn’t done any research about the places ahead of time. While it was still a fun day, I realized I would have gotten much more out of it if we had either hired someone to walk us around and explain things or come prepared with more knowledge on our own. It was a little annoying.

First stop: Segesta.

Then we saw the salt flats at Nubia. Ok. Fine. Big piles of salt. Shallow fields of seawater.

But THEN!!!! The surprise: dozens of wild flamingos. we only saw them from the car so none of our photos turned out well. But I LOVE birds so this was a treat.

The highlight of our trip was Erice, a breathtaking medieval stone village perched high on a hilltop. Its cobblestone streets and charming little shops were straight out of a storybook, but the real showstopper was the view. From the top, we could see endless stretches of the sea and countryside, a panorama so stunning it felt like stepping into a painting. It was incredible to imagine life here centuries ago, surrounded by such beauty.

Today, we had a loose plan but spent most of our time simply wandering the city. Palermo is full of surprises, with beauty waiting around every corner. Almost every building feels like a stunning work of art, and there’s always a perfect photo opportunity just waiting to be captured.

I loved seeing these two fishermen untangle and mend their nets.

Later we took a fun and informative street food tour. So delicious! And we met people from around the world, including a sweet German woman who was eager to help me practice German conversation in the future.