Marsh Travels

Sometimes traveling has very difficult moments. Today we thought about giving up and heading home. We’ve had a great trip and maybe it’s just easier to take those memories and get back to familiar more comfortable surroundings. We arrived at the airport at 6 am for our long awaited flight to Rapa Nui (Easter Island).

At 8:30 when we should have been boarding they announced a 45 minute delay. At 9:15, same thing. Last night there was a big storm with lots of rain, wind and lightening. The airline said they were waiting for flight staff to arrive. The airport was cold and wet from a leaky roof.

The day continued with delay after delay, each announcement being met with more anger. How did all of us manage to get here from various places, but their staff couldn’t? We found out later our flight had been cancelled in the early morning. Everyone guessed the airline was lying. We were all different nations, each sharing a dream that was slowly being crushed. Finally at 6 pm they announced the flight would be cancelled, and the new flight was the next day at 7:30 pm. This meant we lost TWO days on the island.  Then came the final blow: no meals and no hotel vouchers. I asked someone if this was legal, and she said “No, of course not. But who will enforce this?” The crowd went crazy, organizing and chanting “SIN VERGÜENZA! SIN VERGÜENZA!” (“shame!”) This part ended up on the national news! Chileans, man. They know how to protest. There were about 300 angry people and the airline did finally give in, but to process all of us, change tickets, and give vouchers took forever. Then we stood in another hour-long line waiting for the van to take us to the hotel. (6 persons at a time.) At the hotel, it was ANOTHER hour of standing in a long line until we were checked in. A long long day of long long lines. Now we are in a nice hotel, with soft sheets and we’ll see what tomorrow brings. I’m glad we persisted.

We spent a wonderful day in Valparaiso, a cute and colorful port town famous for its street art.

We had a big lunch on the tour, so what I wanted for dinner was ice cream!

We had been warned many times to be careful with our cell phones. I started wondering if it was an urban legend in Santiago. Who would steal cell phones? You can’t really use them after they are locked, right? We were in a new-to-us part of town, we looked around to see if anybody was around who could grab our phone. Seeing no one, we took our phone out of our pocket to look at a map. Less than a minute later, a guy on a moped drove by, tapped me on the shoulder, and as I instinctively turned, he grabbed my phone. He was an expert. We knew we couldn’t pull Jim’s phone out of his pocket so we quickly found a Starbucks to kill my phone. I’m so thankful we had this second phone. Without it, we would’ve really suffered. In the less than 10 minutes, it took for us to get to the coffee shop and erase my phone, the thief had changed the password to all my Gmail accounts. He was able to do this because he could do the two factor authorization because the phone was unlocked when he grabbed it. Even though we had another phone and an iPad, we had no access to anything we needed for traveling. I couldn’t access Airbnb, our flights, our hotel, our guide in Easter Island, or texting on my phone or by WhatsApp. Because I couldn’t do the two factor authorization I was locked out. It was so awful trying to re-create our whole travel itinerary. I had all our information in a Google doc and that too was lost. I had no map, and no camera, and no library book or podcasts. We were up almost all night, calling credit card companies, and worrying about what else the thief might’ve taken from us. It was a hard time.

The Bible verse I had memorized that morning was “rejoice always pray continually give thanks and all circumstances.” I kept repeating it like a mantra to comfort myself. I knew God would take care of me.

Here’s a wild side to the story. Many years ago, my mom’s wedding ring was stolen and they caught that thief. Of course, he had already pawned the ring and spent the money. So he was ordered to pay us restitution and his future wages were garnished. I don’t think it was a coincidence there was a check in the mail from this theft when we got home. The money from one thief paid for my phone from the other thief.

My identity was stolen, but I still had my passport and my physical health and I was able to continue with the trip. So I had a lot to be thankful for.

In the evening we did something so fun it merits its own post. Remember I wrote that in Chile they eat the main meal at noon, and in the evening they have like an English tea? They enjoy tea, and pastries or maybe little sandwiches. Can you imagine how much less work it would be and how much less fighting and complaining you would have if your kids ate a big meal at school and you could serve them tea and donuts for “dinner” in the evening?!

Next to pastries TEA is the BEST! I researched the best place and found a tea shop called Wonderland that had Instagram–worthy decor. Based in an old three-story house, the theme was Alice in Wonderland.

What do I like next to pastries and tea? Cool architecture! This old home was so imaginative and fun. Guests wandered around taking pictures, smiling at all the Lewis Carroll references. I loved it so much.

The presentation of the food was also marvelous. The food itself…average. Too bad!

It was a fun surprise.

We arrived in Santiago late at night and fell into bed at our AirBnB with the drapes closed. In the morning we opened the curtains to a STUNNING view. It took my breath away. We are on the 20th floor and have a view of the city and the mountains. It’s winter here and super cloudy all the time. Still pretty.

Today we rode a funicular and a cable car to a city summit with great views, cute cafes, and lots of family activities at the top. Even a zoo!

Jim and I are having a lot of fun. I feel so lucky that we get to do this. They call senior discounts “tercera edad” or “third age.” First age is childhood, then working and raising a family. Third age is “a time for leisure and reflection.” It’s a great time of life to be in.

Then we took the subway to a cool restaurant: Espacio Gárgola.

Then we went to the Museum of Memory and Human rights. I have no photos. In 1973 Pinochet led a military coup against Salvador Allende’s democratic government. 17 years of a severe dictatorship with horrible abuses of human rights followed. Although his rule ended 34 years ago, our guide said even now most people really don’t want to talk about those terrible years where everyone lived in fear. I’m ashamed of the part our government played in overthrowing Allende’s left-leaning government.

Over the years, I have honed my skills in finding a good artisanal bakery. My favorite part of the day is getting a beautiful pastry in a teeny bakery where the smell, and the sound of baking waft out the front door. Often we have good conversations with the baker or the people around us, and we get a real insight into the culture, and also good ideas for the day.

You guys, I may have found Nirvana! In Chile they have French pastries for breakfast, a big meal at noon, and then for their evening meal they have more French pastries (and little savory bites), with tea. TWO MEALS of pastries!

After the Spaniards left in 1831, Chile went through what they called French Fever. Their new constitution and legal system was French. Their education, French. Their love of protesting for their rights, French. Architecture, also French. The French never actually settled here, but the Chilean people went crazy for anything French and hired French architects and legal experts.

This is good news for me because fabulous French bakeries are plentiful. The coffee is TERRIBLE. Even the Chileans say it’s terrible. They don’t really drink it. Many restaurants don’t even serve it. They drink tea. Very civilized.

It’s a sad situation here economically. Chile used to be the richest and most stable country in South America. Then, because of the crises in Venezuela, Peru, Argentina, and Haiti, and then the pandemic over two million immigrants suddenly overwhelmed Santiago’s infrastructure. Everyone warns us about crime. (People will steal the phone out of your hand even in the cathedral!) People have told Jim not to walk around with his camera in view. The formerly beautiful historic center was so overrun with migrants that the government, banks, and other merchants gave up and left that part of the city. The government now operates out of Valparaíso—a town two hours away from Santiago.

I like visiting the homes of renowned artists because they can be like a big piece of art in themselves. Pablo Neruda, Chilean Noble Prize winner in Literature, designed a home here and it’s quirky and fun. It’s filled with pieces he gathered from his many international trips—glasses from Portugal, dolls from Poland and Russia, a side table from Paris, a screen from China, and on and on. I couldn’t take pictures inside, but the gardens are pretty, too.

The neighborhood we are in can either be described as “chic” and “bohemian” or dangerous and sketchy. Or both. The street art is fun. It’s not amazing art, but it’s on every building so the neighborhood has real character.

It’s our last day with EF. It’s been such a delight to be with people who truly believe the way to better understanding and world peace is through education and international travel. I will totally cry for you, Argentina. I don’t want to leave your beautiful country.

We had an Argentinian cooking class. (Should I stop complaining about HOW MUCH FOOD there is on this trip?) The restaurant made some of the dishes and we made some.

Dulce de leche is HUGE. They have huge tubs of it at breakfast, and it’s on many of their desserts.

Alfajores are the thing Argentinians eat at snack time (around 4 pm.) and, breakfast, and, really all the time. They are two cookies with dulce de leche between, covered with chocolate.

EF dropped us off at the airport with our friends who were traveling back to the US. Because we were staying in South America, EF was not responsible to get us to the plane, but we tagged along with our friends to the airport. At check-in, we discovered that there are two airports and we were at the wrong one. 😫 We quickly enlisted an Uber, drove 45 minutes, literally back to the neighborhood where our hotel was, then an additional half hour to the correct airport. Very stressful, but we made it in time for our flight! Whew!

Now we are on the part where we have to figure out everything ourselves and pay everything by ourselves. No more guide, tour director, luxury, hotels, and restaurants.

We started with a fun date at sunrise on the rooftop of our hotel. 💜

I love how our tour company EF is centered around education, and giving people authentic experiences. It tends to avoid the activities aimed only at tourists. Today we learned the history and tried our hand at fileteado porteño, an Argentinian style of painting recognized in 2015 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Originally it was used to decorate carriages for high government officials or important people. Now you see it on signs everywhere here.

Then we explored the huge San Telmo Market. It was like an art education with every kind of craft, painting, wood work, musical instrument, ceramics, and more that you can imagine. I would like to take a photo. I walked 14,000 steps most of them in this market.

We took photos at the Women’s Bridge.

The day was packed, and we still had activities to do! Next up: a tango lesson!

Then a fun dinner show. (Argentinians have weaponized food and wine: salad, steak, fish, fresh vegetables, choice of many desserts.) SO MUCH FOOD!

The dinner show was one that even locals go to. The tango was A level, and it was the kind of tango that is acrobatic—part seductive dancing, part gymnastics, part ballet. There was also traditional music.

The EF staff was so amazing and went above and beyond for us. This was our last night together. I had made each of them little travel pouches and they really liked them. and said “Take a picture of us together”.

According to our tour guide, the three most famous cemeteries are Père Lachaise in Paris, the cemetery in Genoa Italy, and the one we visited today in Recoleta. It has the largest collection of marble in the world. It was like a little city with maze-like streets.

People love Eva Peron because she did so much for the poor in education, housing, wages, and working conditions. She was only 33 when she died of cancer, and many think it’s some kind of sign that she died at the same age as Jesus.

Then we traveled to a town just outside of Buenos Aires, called Tigre, and took a boat ride down the delta. We passed pretty homes, restaurants, a church, expensive hotels, and more along the shore.

Then we had a marathon food walking tour that was five hours of serious eating. The food was so good and so plentiful.

But we weren’t done yet!

By this time we were in pain, but we weren’t done yet! More food!

Why is prime beef so inexpensive in Argentina and Uruguay? The Spanish brought cows to Uruguay and Argentina, and because they had no natural enemies and plenty of food in the pampas, the cow population exploded. Large ranchos formed, worked by cowboys called “gauchos.” The gauchos were mostly children of mixed race—Spanish and Native American. Originally the settlers sold the hides and fat, but today it’s mostly the meat. To keep prices low, (and the population fed), the government controls the amount of beef that can be exported.

Today was the highlight of the trip. We went to a working farm. The property was so beautiful and the weather was perfect. They fed us every other minute with food produced and prepared on the land: empanadas, sausages, prime rib, barbecued chicken, different kinds of fresh salads, ice cream and pastries. So much food!!!

I love the surprises on an EF trip. We all piled into an old wagon for a ride around the farm. Very touristy, right?

But the aim was to show us the adorable burrowing owls who had nests on the farm. Melted my heart. They also had thousands of green parakeets that didn’t like having their picture taken.

We watched the gauchos challenge each other in various horse riding competitions.

They had a little show where they danced the tango and other traditional dances.

The weather was beautiful, and, again, I felt like I was playing with my good friends.

After a long day I went back to the hotel for the evening. Jim went to this bookstore that is his newest world favorite.

And the group went out for pizza. We are all teachers so you can say “Let’s explore this bookstore and meet at this spot in an hour” and everyone will show up exactly 55 minutes later. No one is ever late in this group.

Today we took a 1 1/2 hour ferry ride across the estuary to Argentina. Because the group is so fun even the times we are on the boat or on the bus are great times of laughing and telling stories. Meals are so amazing because people have interesting stories. One new hilarious friend has written a book similar to Glass Castle or Hillbilly Elegy— he was “beaten, broken, stabbed, shot, poisoned, locked up, starved, molested, demoralized and thrown away in a dumpster.” He has a doctorate and two masters degrees now. He teaches high school symphony, has five kids and is a pastry chef. Another couple’s 19 year old daughter was diagnosed with cancer a week before the trip. The daughter claimed if they didn’t go on the trip she wouldn’t talk to them the whole time they should have been gone. One guy, under 40, has been to 76 countries! Really interesting people.

Buenos Aires is a beautiful, modern city with a rich history.

In Buenos Aires, when someone died alone in the hospital during the pandemic, their family put a stone at this statue to protest. There were thousands and thousands of stones piled all around this statue.

We shopped at a colorful tourist area where local artists sold their work. It was crowded and chaotic, but I liked buying things from these hard-working talented people.

A lot of Italians immigrated to Argentina in the early 1900s—The word Argentina comes from the Italian word for silver (argento.) There are many fine Italian restaurants here, and, in a break from steak, we ate at one tonight.