Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Albania Day 9: Samarkand

If Bukhara is Florence, Samarkand is Rome: a huge open air museum with monuments around every corner. It’s a big city and so spread out! We are certainly getting our steps in!

Our walking tour started at 9 o’clock and lasted four hours! Fortunately, the history was fascinating, and our guide was fun and engaging. Amir Timur (Tamerlane) ruled from 1370 to 1405, controlling an enormous empire that stretched from Istanbul through the Middle East to parts of present-day China—about 4.4 million square kilometers. Huge! He built many of the beautiful buildings we see today.

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum

The following photo looks up into the inside of the dome, and it’s stunningly beautiful. Because Samarkand is in an active seismic zone, the inside of the dome is made of papier-mâché rather than stone!

More walking. Next building…

Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum built to house the women of the Amir’s family—they couldn’t be buried together if any male outside their family was also buried there.

Over the centuries, many of the buildings fell into complete disrepair. Then, beginning in the 1970s, the Soviets undertook major restoration projects. They weren’t particularly interested in preserving the buildings for their Islamic significance, but they recognized their historical and cultural value—and, perhaps, their potential to attract tourists and generate revenue.

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Registan Square after restoration
Sher-Dor Madrasa
Coffee stop on the tour—amazing strawberry eclairs at Eclair bakery

The buildings are even more spectacular in real life than in photos. I was not disappointed. When I planned the trip I thought all these buildings were in one place, but they are spread throughout the city. Around every corner was a new monument.

Hazrat Khizr Mosque originally built in 712 AD
Inside the Hazrat Khizr mosque
Have I mentioned how much I love the beautiful tile work on these buildings?
Lunch at a cute “tea house”

After lunch, we wandered through the huge market—but somehow couldn’t find the food section! When we finally did, we found the most delicious melon I’ve ever tasted. I tried using Google Translate to communicate with the vendors, but it quickly became clear that many of them couldn’t read.

Dinner was an experience recommended by my Italian teacher: Samarkand restaurant. It’s a luxurious Soviet-style restaurant where locals celebrate special occasions such as wedding dinners or birthdays. Each room was different and elaborately decorated.


We had an amazing dinner, Jim ordered a bottle of wine (we took half home), and even with a generous tip, the bill was under $35.

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