Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Albania, Day 12: Dushanbe, Tajikistan

New city, new country, new currency, new language, new transportation (we miss you, Yandex!), and a lot more brainwork! Every new place comes with a learning curve, but that’s part of the adventure. And so far, Dushanbe is wonderful.

Tajikistan has the lowest GDP per person of the five Central Asian countries, (the “Stans”) yet its capital, Dushanbe, feels remarkably modern, with wide boulevards, grand buildings, beautiful parks, and monumental architecture. It’s has a ton of beautiful parks, flowers and fountains.

Part of the explanation is that Dushanbe is a relatively young capital. What was once a small village known for its Monday market became the capital of Soviet Tajikistan in the 1920s. (Dushanbe means “Monday” in Tajik.) The Soviet government transformed it into an administrative and cultural center, and since Tajikistan gained independence in 1991, the government has continued to invest heavily in developing the city. Much of the monumental architecture and urban landscape we see today reflects that relatively recent history.

While we were waiting for our tour, these women approached us and asked where we were from. (They had the same shocked reaction as others we’ve met!) We chatted for a bit, and then they wanted to take pictures with us.

People here are so friendly and curious about us. The first time it happened, it was fun and unexpected. But after being approached repeatedly by strangers who wanted to talk and take photos with us, the novelty began to wear off!

The oldest building in the city: 100 years old.
The beautiful national library
Fun park.
Females have to wear dresses here. This young girl who talked with us is wearing heavy velvet. The clothes are beautiful, but it’s 95 degrees here today, and hotter in the summer. I would hate it if my government controlled how I dressed.

We’re managing to feed ourselves despite the language barrier. Everything is a risk and a surprise! It turns out these bread-like pastries are filled with meat, potatoes, and sauerkraut, respectively.

After naps we met Austin for dinner at his favorite restaurant: a Persian one. The food was incredible, and we were happy to have a translator!

So much food! That big hot bread was delicious.
My tea came with dates and a pretty sugar stirrer, but, alas, no milk.
My Zareshk Polo with chicken. (The translation was “painful chicken”, but it wasn’t painful or spicy.) This is what I order at American Persian restaurants.
Tahdig (crispy saffron rice)

Austin is Anglican and very conservative theologically, which led to some good conversations. He didn’t hesitate a moment when I asked “What’s your dream?” “To be bishop in Tajikistan.” It’s always fun for me to be around young people who have figured out and are following their passion.

After dinner we walked around the city admiring the beautiful lights.

Parliament
The national library

One thought on “Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Albania, Day 12: Dushanbe, Tajikistan”

  1. Interesting place. The oldest building is 100 years old? Considering that is only 1926, that seems crazy. The National Library and the Parliament buildings are my favorite. What’s with all the lighted archways?

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